Skip navigation

MARCKY

By Kasey M. Dunton

While watching Ugly Betty, I saw an interesting hat on one of my favourite characters. Cabbie-style, it had five stripes in three shades of blue; each stripe went from wide to narrow to create a sort of racing-stripe effect. I turned immediately to my boyfriend and said “I have to knit that!”

After reminding me that I a) don’t knit hats very often; b) couldn’t knit that particular hat; and c) look really bad in hats anyway, I put my imagination to work and decided to turn this stylish cap into a sweater. Naturally, the boyfriend decided he needed the sweater instead! Less than two weeks of knitting later, it appeared. Because it’s created in narrow panels, it knits up surprisingly quickly (rather than languishing in stockinette-land for weeks to create 13” of body length). It’s suitable for a variety of colour and style combinations, it looks nice in stockinette or in 2×2 rib, and – my favourite feature – it’s unisex.

SIZES: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL) “Unisex” Adult

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:

Chest (stretched): 30 (34, 38, 44, 50, 55). Designed to fit snugly.

Length: 20-26”, as suited to wearer.

MATERIALS:

YARN: Naturally Caron Country(75% Microdenier Acrylic, 25% Merino, 185 yd/85g skein) in 0013 Spruce, 0021 Peacock, and 0005 Ocean Spray.

Main Colour: 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) skeins – front center panel, back center panel.

CC1: 2 (3, 3, 4, 5, 5) skeins – front and back side panels, lower sleeves

CC2: 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3) skeins – upper sleeves

GAUGE: 24st/28r in stockinette st. per 4×4” square. Size 8 needles suggested.

While the pattern is for the 2×2 ribbed version, it can just as easily be knit in stockinette using the same basic construction.

Back Center Panel

CO 40 (46, 50, 60, 70, 76) in Main Colour.

[k2, p2] to end (RS)

Work in 2×2 rib for approximately 80 – 140 rows to underarm. Lengthen or shorten to suit the wearer.

End with WS row.

Row 1 (RS): k1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 st, k2tog, k1

Row 2 (WS): Work stitches as they appear

Row 3 (RS): Work stitches as they appear

Row 4 (WS): Work stitches as they appear

Repeat these 4 rows 11 (12, 13, 14 15, 16) additional times.

Knit one more decrease row.

Place remaining 14 (18, 20, 28, 36, 40 ) on waste yarn; set aside.

Front Center Panel

CO 40 ( 46, 50, 60, 70, 76) in Main Colour

Work the same as the Back Center Panel until the 7th (7th, 8th, 8th, 9th) decrease.

k1, ssk, work in pattern to center, BO center 2 sts, work in pattern to last three st, k2tog, k1.

Work both sides – either separately or at the same time – and using the same decreases as Back Center Panel.

When 6 (8, 9, 13, 17, 18) stitches remain on each side of the zipper, place those stitches on waste yarn.

Left Panel (Front and Back, knit 2)

CO 24 (28, 30, 33, 35, 40) in CC1

[k2, p2] to end (RS)

Work in 2×2 rib for one row less than the number of rows in the center panel, ending with RS row.

On WS, BO 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) stitches. Work in pattern for the rest of the row.

Row 1 (RS): k1, m1, work in pattern to last 3 st, k2tog, k1

Row 2 (WS): Work all stitches as they appear

Row 3 (RS): Work in pattern to last 3 st, k2tog, k1

Row 4 (WS): Work all stitches as they appear

Repeat these 4 rows 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16) additional times.

Knit one additional decrease row.

Place remaining 6 (7, 8, 8, 10, 13) on the same waste yarn as the center panel, with the under-arm gusset to the left.

Right Panel (Front and Back, knit 2)

In CC1, CO 24 (28, 30, 33, 35, 40) st.

Work in 2×2 rib for the same number of rows as the back center panel, ending with WS row.

Beginning on RS row, BO 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) stitches. On that same row, begin the decrease pattern:

Row 1 (RS): k1, ssk, work in pattern to last 2 st, m1, k1

Row 2 (WS): p2, work the rest of the stitches as they appear.

Row 3 (RS): k1, ssk, work in pattern to end of row

Row 4 (WS): Work all stitches as they appear

Repeat these 4 rows 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16) additional times.

Knit one additional decrease row.

Place remaining 6 (7, 8, 8, 10, 13 ) on same waste yarn as the center panel, with the under-arm gusset to the right.

Lower Sleeve (knit 2)

CO 18 (20, 24, 26, 30, 34) st in CC1

Work in 2×2 rib.

Work 14 rows. On row 15, p1, m1, work to last 2 st, m1, p1.

Every 15 rows, increase 2 stitches a total of 6 (6, 6, 7, 8, 8) times – There are now 30 (32, 36, 44, 50, 58) total on the needle.

Knit until the lower sleeve is the desired length to the underarm. This length will vary greatly depending on wearer’s height and limb proportion (shown in 100 st. long).

Work 10 (10, 11, 12, 14, 19) st in pattern, BO 10 (12, 14, 16, 18, 20) in center, remaining st. Work each side of the lower sleeve, decreasing one stitch from the center (next to the BO section) every 4 rows. This will seem counterintuitive to anyone who’s ever knitted a sleeve before, but keep in mind that this sleeve’s seams won’t be along the bottom of the arm; therefore, the decreases should come out of the center.

Work until there is 1 st. remaining per side, and bind it off. Set aside.

Upper Sleeve (knit 2)

In CC2, CO 22 (24, 26, 30, 34, 40) st

Work in 2×2 rib

inc. every 10 rows (10x)

Work for the same length as the total lower sleeve (or, 20 (20, 22, 24, 28, 38) rows longer than the lower sleeve pre-decrease).

Begin decreases – k1, ssk, work to last 3, k2tog, k1 – every RS row a total of 11 (12, 13, 13, 15) times.

Set aside remaining 10 (10, 12, 14, 16, 20) st on waste yarn.

Piecing/Neck:

Sleeves: Attach Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve

Front and Back: Attach left and right panels to the center panel

Body: Attach the front and back to each other at the sideseams. Beginning at the underarm, attach the sleeves to the rest of the garment. The top of the sleeve should line up with the top of the side panels.

While piecing, be sure to keep the live stitches on waste yarn.

With smaller needle, pick up the 60 (72, 84, 96, 112, 130) st around the neck.

Cut pieces of yarn approx 4-5 yards long – 2 in MC, 4 in CC1, 2 in CC2. These pieces will be used to create the vertically-striped neck.

Work the neck in 2×2 rib in the colour each stitch appears. This is accomplished in the same way as you would knit fair isle or argyle. Be sure to twist the strands together tightly when changing colours!

Work approx. 15 rows, then BO loosely using MC.

Using a creull needle and the appropriate colour, reinforce the border between each colour on the neck.

Weave in ends.

Sew in zipper.

5 Comments

  1. Cute!! I also watch the show for Mark…

  2. Love everything about it except for having to put in a zipper (the bane of my existence). Thanks

  3. You could adjust it to either make it a full (non-zip) turtleneck, or could make it a button-front instead if you prefer.

  4. I love the detail to shades of color and a gorgeous sweater on a budget. Kudos to you and thanks for sharing the patterns. I like the zipper as well- I used to sew before I learned to knit, so no biggie.

  5. Was browsing ravelry and my hubby was checking his email, he turned to myself asking for a pen, gazed the sweater a couple of second and “ordered” one. He’s slender and likes fitted garments, sometimes we share t-shirts and coats.
    This one looks perfect for both of us, I’ll make one and then we’ll share.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

%d bloggers like this: